

Vitamin A can be confusing to figure out. Do you need a retinoid, retinyl, retinol or retinal? Is over the counter enough or do you need a prescription? Here’s your cheat sheet to the wonder vitamin that assists in cellular renewal, stimulates collagen production, treats acne, fades pigmentation and improves overall clarity of the skin AND the natural alternatives.
Retinoid
This is the umbrella term for Vitamin A and its derivatives discussed in these slides. Each type of derivative converts in the skin at different speeds and strengths, influencing results and irritation levels. The end point of conversion is Retinoic acid. The less steps of conversion means the quicker to see results, but there is a chance of it being more irritating. If your skin is prone to sensitivity, start low and slow, alternating days of use.
On your days off from Retinoid, use comforting, and repairing skincare.
Always always use and SPF as active Vitamin A will make your skin sensitive to the sun and more prone to burn.
Retinyl Palmitate
Strength: Low (beginner)
Three steps away from conversion
Gentle and most stable
Least likely to cause irritation
Slowest to yield results
Ideal for beginners and sensitive skin
Can be derived from plants or synthesised in a lab
Retinol
Strength: moderate (most skin types)
Is gentle and effective
Two steps away from conversion
Slower acting therefore more gentle on the skin
Most common in over the counter ingredients
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR)
Strength: moderate to high (sensitive and barrier compromised skin types)
A next generation retinoid
No conversion required therefore it acts much like Retinoic Acid
Far less risk of irritation than tretinoin
Gentle yet effective
Retinal (Retinaldehyde)
Strength: high (intermediate users)
One step away from conversion
Faster results when compared to retinol
For the person who is ready to step up their Vitamin A
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
Strength: Very High (experienced users)
Prescription only
Already active. No conversion needed
Delivers fast clinical results
Can be irritating at first
The Natural alternatives
The hesitation of using Vitamin A is related to irritation and caution with use in pregnancy. Thankfully there are now natural alternatives providing clinical results with reduced risks.
Bakuchiol
Strength: gentle (beginner, sensitive)
Clinically proven results that mimic retinol’s effects.
Improves firmness, fine lines and uneven tone
Non irritating, suitable for sensitive skin types
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
Rambutan
Strength: gentle (dull or dry skin)
Boosts collagen, elasticity and hydration
Much gentler than retinoids, but still targets signs of ageing and dullness
Often paired with Bakuchiol or peptides in formulas for calming the skin